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UPWr scientist on the way to revolutionize the beauty market with innovative project

Dr. Agnieszka Krawczyk-Łebek, from the Department of Food Chemistry and Biocatalysis at UPWr, has secured funding for her groundbreaking project in the 14th edition of the National Centre for Research and Development's "Leader" program. Her research focuses on developing a multifunctional preservative for the cosmetics industry, offering a natural alternative to synthetic preservatives that are increasingly rejected by consumers.

Her innovative project, "Flavonoid Glycosides with a Chlorine Atom: Multifunctional, Natural Preserving Agents in Cosmetic Products," has been awarded nearly 1.8 million PLN from the NCBR. – The aim is to create a new type of cosmetic ingredient that doubles as a multifunctional preservative. This substance replaces artificial preservatives, which are often unwelcome among consumers, and potentially allergenic active components like antioxidant BHT – says Dr. Krawczyk-Łebek, who has already made significant strides in her preliminary research, synthesizing four novel dihydrochalcone glycosides with chlorine atoms. These compounds exhibit antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, and cytoprotective properties, and their water solubility is enhanced through the biotechnological attachment of methylglucose. These new glycosides are the subject of several patent applications, and the project offers a chance to implement these inventions in the economy.

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Dr. Agnieszka Krawczyk-Łebek from the Department of Food Chemistry and Biocatalysis
photo by Tomasz Lewandowski


– The next stage involves application research, wherein one of the glycosides will be chosen for its most advantageous activities suitable for cosmetic use. These include preservative, antimicrobial, anti-dandruff, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties, along with optimal physicochemical parameters and high efficiency in large-scale laboratory production. The selected glycoside will then be incorporated into a new cosmetic formulation featuring a 'clean composition.' This development will be available in two variants: a 'non-washable cream' and a 'washable shampoo" – adds the UPWr scientist, highlighting the project's anticipated outcomes. It is expected to yield an optimized process for producing new cosmetic raw materials on a pilot scale. Additionally, it will lead to the creation of novel cosmetic formulations, complete with a thorough characterization. This comprehensive understanding of the new products will greatly enhance their potential for successful commercialization and practical application in the market.

Large company interested in research

Especially since Symbiosis, a well-known company in the Polish cosmetics industry, declares a willingness to test the obtained substances in their cosmetic formulations during the project's implementation.

–The company's engagement extends beyond merely observing the outcomes. It is actively involved in several key aspects: developing innovative cosmetic formulas, undertaking essential research to facilitate the market launch of these cosmetics, and verifying the biological properties of the finished products, all of which will be bolstered by application research under medical oversight. Furthermore, Symbiosis is prepared to offer assistance in identifying the most effective registration pathways for these new cosmetic raw materials. Should the project's results prove sufficiently promising, the company is open to initiating discussions regarding the commercialization of these innovations – says Dr. Joanna Wicińska from the UPWr Research and Development Center, which supported Dr. Krawczyk-Łebek both in preparing the project proposal and in talks with entrepreneurs - potential recipients of the project results.

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15.01.2024
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